Oh my. Where to begin. I had hoped at this point things would have begun to crystalize, solid notions clinging purposefully to a stick like those rock candy crystal things we loved as kids. It’s more like a fruit salad, though…a colorful mixture of emotions and thoughts and even more questions than when this experiment launched.
We’ve fallen into a routine, which took a little longer than I thought. Of course, the first week is just getting into the groove of a different time zone, etc., and then we hosted our friend Stefani the second week. As the days have settled into place, we have a somewhat predictable schedule – which has thus far included too much food (but a heckuva lot of walking) and maybe just a tad more wine than one should. But that’s another story.
The heartbeat of Spoleto has become familiar. We still get turned around on some of the streets, yet we know the outlay of the city and have even nicknamed some of the passages we frequent. We see familiar faces in the piazza, in the restaurants, going about daily business. We’ve come to know a handful of shopkeepers and proprietors; friendly greetings and chats are exchanged. Relationships are developing even if superficial at this juncture.
Beauty and history are in excess here, but a good excess. We step out our door and see the Roman blocks supporting the stone wall across the walkway. It’s a unique thing living side by side with antiquity, where so many lives have played out. I could ramble joyfully on and on about such things, but I’ll refocus on the main idea — where is my heart with a contemplated move.
We love Spoleto, truly, but have mostly concluded that she is probably not a possibility if we were inclined to gear towards a full-on move. The tax base would dig into our planned retirement income in a big way. Marty is probably expounding more on that in his post – of which we both agreed to write and not share before posting. We could buy here and do the Schengen Shuffle of 90 days here, 90 days in Texas, but that comes with worry, too. The “easy” path would be purchase in a 7% zone, of which we are actively exploring and visiting the nearby towns that qualify, and decide full time or not, or just do the Shuffle and rent wherever our hearts led for the 90-day cycle. Do I have a strong feel that any of these are “the” thing to do? Not really, unfortunately. But then again, if forced to make a choice right now, I think I’d have to go with the Shuffle. There is a lot that a full-time move would require; am I ready for that?
In the meantime, it has been verified that I am happy here. I do not feel homesickness other than missing my family, friends, and cat. I am already feeling that little pang of “oh dear” when I realize how quickly our departure time will arrive. This is reassuring in that this experiment is truly valuable and meaningful.
One other interesting consideration Marty and I have talked about is that we are newbies at retirement. We had less than three months at home to find our way of how that works, how that feels, and much of that time was spent on paperwork, etc. as Marty’s career closed out. Are we still too much in vacation mode on this trip? I don’t know. Maybe. But then again, retirement is supposed to be “Wheee, we’re free to do as we darn well please!” every day.
There’s still time for data gathering, still time to see where the heart and soul and reality all fall out. I’m hoping we both will feel/know better on just what we want, when June 11th rolls around, but who knows!! In the meantime, what’s for lunch??
This is enlightening, can’t wait for the two of you to read each others’ posts!
The struggle is real – lol! We weren’t too surprised that we’re both pretty much on the same page. Onward march!
Ciao Paula,
I loved reading your update — you had me at “fruit salad of emotions.” (I feel like you just perfectly described not just moving to Italy, but retirement itself.)
First of all, it sounds like you and Marty are doing this exactly right: soaking it all in, falling into routines, making connections, and questioning everything twice before breakfast. That’s the real Italian immersion experience — minus the mopeds.
I will say, though — Marty and I have started a budding email friendship (don’t worry, no secret cabals… yet), and based on the way things are shaping up, it’s pretty clear that if you guys do move to Italy, he and I will be the two old guys hogging a piazza table, playing cards, and grumbling about how “kids today don’t know a good spritz from a glass of orange Fanta.” So obviously, my wife is going to need a shopping or wine-drinking companion to balance this nonsense out. Just saying.
On the serious side, it sounds like you’re asking all the right questions without letting the unknowns paralyze you. That’s not easy — and honestly, it’s way more insightful than feeling “crystal clear” right now would be. Italy doesn’t usually hand you clarity on a silver platter — it hands you more pasta, more questions, and eventually a very full heart.
In the meantime… if you find a good wine deal during your “data gathering,” I’m expecting a full report. (Purely for research purposes, of course.)
-C
Ciao Caesar!
Your comment opened my morning in a delightful way – thank you! And I so appreciate you taking the time to read the post.
So true that clarity is not served up on a silver platter here, and isn’t that really a wonderful thing at the end of the day? I think a few people do find that experience in making this decision, just as a few people truly find their soulmate at first glance, but it’s the courting and the flirting, and the spending time together to reach that decision point that makes for an exciting ride.
I really have enjoyed peeking over Marty’s shoulder as you two have talked, shared data, and come to know each other. It’s fairly obvious you both are cut from the same complex cloth! I often tease him when we see the old men on the park benches or outside the bars solving the world’s problems — “You’re next , honey!” But aren’t they a joy to see, dressed all dapper and engaged in whatever is most irritating on that particular day! (And you can assure your wife I’m always up for a run on the town!)
We’re off to Ascoli Piceno today, a town we love (along with the oliva ascolani), then will venture into Abruzzo the next couple of days to investigate some 7% towns. Stay tuned for updates!
Thank you so much again – you are appreciated greatly!
Warmest regards, Paula
PS – I will force myself to experience even more fabulous wines as a means to fulfill your request… So altruistic of me, right? 😉 Salute!
Ciao Paula,
You captured it beautifully — it is the courting and the questioning that makes this whole process so much richer (and so much more memorable). If clarity came too easily, I think we’d all be suspicious that we were missing something important.
And yes, I have to say, it’s been a real pleasure getting to know Marty through our exchanges — you can always tell when someone enjoys the process of thinking through complexity instead of rushing to “the answer.” I can absolutely picture him (and, let’s be honest, probably me too) one day joining the ranks of those dapper (I’m already updating my wardrobe) bench philosophers, animatedly debating whether the best caffè macchiato is in town A or town B, while the real news of the day — the gossip — hums around us. I’m glad to know you’ll be leading the counter-charge into the boutiques and enotecas while we argue ourselves into circles!
Enjoy every moment in Ascoli Piceno (and please have a few extra oliva ascolana for the rest of us stuck on this side of the ocean), and I can’t wait to hear your impressions of Abruzzo. There’s something truly special about the way these towns slowly reveal themselves once you start walking their streets, talking to the locals, and seeing them not just as pretty pictures but as living, breathing places.
And if your “research” yields any life-changing wines… well, duty demands that you share your findings. (We all must suffer for the cause. 🍷)
Safe travels, and looking forward to hearing more soon!
Un caro saluto,
Caesar