March 30 – Sunday
The weather was in a great mood today! Back to skies so blue against the green mountains, dancing clouds, and an overexubernt wind…all those things that make one explain repeatedly –
“It’s such gorgeous day!” We wanted to take full advantage of it and spend time doing a bit of outdoors exploring. The nearby bar , we found out, is closed on Sundays so we decided to wander around on our way to a small ancient church,
Perfect! We came across the special little pastecierria that our expat friends had mentioned as a “not to miss” place. Just the smell of things baking was enough to drag one in like the floating through the air cartoon character of old. A cappuccino and the most flakey, flavorful, yummy cornetta filled with pistachio cream, and we were ready to tackle the world. The places seems totally run by ladies and they do a grand job of it!
On to the Chiesa dei SS. Giovanni e Paolo built in 1174. Like so many things from the post Roman era, much of the building is made of repurposed Roman stones. It’s an interesting space, small and austere, although the remains of some rather important frescoes still provide contemplation for visitors. Sadly, the crypt was not accessible.
Next stop on our museums and antiquity tour was the Palazzo Collicola. Built in the 1600’s, the second floor of the palace is still retained in the decor (minus being furnished, per se) of the era and is known as the Nobel Apartment. Lavish, to say the least! The upper floor has been fitted out to serve as a modern art museum. Like with all modern art, I am able to enjoy a good number of the creations and the meaning they convey, but there are other works that my soul just won’t respond to. Ha! And once again — we had the whole place to ourselves! This is shoulder season, so things do pick up as the warmer months bring in more tourists.
Lunch – oh so yum. An artichoke parmigiana… ooooh yes! Fresh chicory is in season now, too, and the Italians know how to sauté it just right.
Time to burn off lunch and head over to the Bridge of Towers, or the Ponte Delle Torre. This magnificent structure was built in the 1300s over the ruins of a Roman acquduct that is believed to also have served as a bridge across the huge gorge. It’s a grand walk, and the opposite lands one at an ancient mill. Trails in all directions branch off from here, many of them there as long as human feet have walked them. St. Francis of nearby Assisi walked these very paths as he went from village to village. That enthralled me. The quiet grandeur of the forests here is poetic and does feel like a holy presence. Prechristian people here worshiped these forests, along with Jupiter, and there are still festivals tied to these celebrations. Regardless, the scripture “Be still and know that I am God” is perfectly lived out amongst this incredible beauty. Oh…and Umbria is known as the Lungs of Italy due to the expansive and pristine forests that cover her!
After aperitivo at the other main bar in Piazza Mercato (they we didn’t like as much), it was back to the same restaurant for their renown pizza. Reputation is intact – burp.