A Lunch (and then some) to Remember

(Accompanying photos on our Facebook page – Trying on Italy)

Every day is special no matter where you are.

But some days here in Italy just seem to bubble over the brim of special and memorable. Today was one such day for us.

We returned yesterday from a road trip north and there were several things to catch up on here, but we decided we’d take care of one item on that list, then head over towards Campello Sul Clitunno for lunch in a recommended ristorante, as well as see more of the town proper. The rest of the day would await for the other have-to’s on our list.

Campello sul Clitunno is the small town where the amazing “Fontaine” are, the small spring fed ponds that meander through weeping willows and tall sycamore. Several swans and a flock of lively ducks zip up what is an enchanting scene. We’ve been here several times, but never have ventured much beyond. Our chosen lunch site was about 8 km up the mountainside from here. The plan was head up for our meal, then we’d take another walk through the ponds.

The ride up the mountainside was more adventurous than we thought, but also more spectacular than we could have imagined. These are large mountains — I don’t know the elevation, but they make Tuscany’s hills look tiny. The road took us through several tiny communities tucked on mountain plateaus as it played into a narrower one vehicle path that looked better suited for a donkey. The views over the Spoletina valley were incredible, Hues of green from deep emerald to granny smith apple spread out like quilt squares, the spring crops coming into summer as the days are now warmer. Olive groves covered large patches of mountainsides looking as if they’d slide off at any moment. How do they harvest these mountain olive trees? The weather had gone from royal blue skies to billowing white clouds taking advantage of atmospheric instability over the distant mountain tops. A stunning scene no matter the direction.

We made it to the tiny hamlet of Fontenelle, which is actually not much more than the restaurant and small hotel and a couple of additional houses. The location of this retreat is magical…a grassy green space with an inviting pool that overlooks the valley below, roses, lounge chairs, vine covered pergolas, and a soft cool breeze. The scene made us wish to never leave.

This family-owned restaurant is known for their truffle dishes. Our fortune, we met the owner and main truffle hunter Alessandro. His father greeted us and ushered us in, then Alessandro took over. We were able to have some wonderful conversation over the course of our unforgettable lunch. He was born here, but lived during the school year down in the valley. His grandparents lived further up the mountain in a tiny hamlet (which we drove up to see). Alessandro is a truffle and wild game hunter; he knows this region like one who took their first steps on a mountain trail. He even offered to take us truffle hunting! Not sure if we can pull this off on this trip, but there is always the fall – and the offer alone was a sweet enough gift.

The food was amazing, incredible. A starter with prosciutto, pecorino, and truffle bruschetta followed by a shared strangozzi pasta with truffles and butter made us swoon. All, of course, house made by Alessandro’s mother and wife. The main dish was sausage with truffle. I’ve eaten a lot of sausage here – it’s always so fresh, not too fatty, and delicious — but this was top. My mouth is watering just writing about it! We had to have dessert — what had his mother made and would recommend for us? We went with the local Spolentina cake of Crescuita (not sure on spelling!)…an almost flan-like dessert that is light in texture but rich in flavors of cinnamon, vanilla, and burnt sugar. So so good!

More conversation followed before we departed. This is a place we will definitely return before leaving despite the time required to get there.

The remainder of the afternoon found us going further up the mountain to tiny Pettino. Another recommended ristorante is here, one of perhaps 10 buildings, but they are not open until Friday. We should probably go! We wandered back down the serpentine road. As we neared the small walled town I’d seen on the way up, it was worth taking a chance to find it despite lack of signage. A sharp right turn, a few more guesses, and we found it!

Tiny, walled in a perfect medieval circle, Castello di Campello dates to the 1300’s and was an important stop on the via Francigena, the road of St. Frances to Rome. It was ghostly quiet save for one woman. There is some sort of resort/spa here, it seems, but I suppose summer is their high season. The other possibility we learned with these mountain hamlets is that many of the homes are now owned as get-aways by foreigners, mostly European. I can see the appeal for a quiet retreat, and it also helps preserve these special places.

We stopped at one other village, Silvagnano, to wander and appreciate the beauty. I’m enamored with all of Italy, but the beauty here is Umbria has grabbed me in a way I almost didn’t expect. The mountains have always been a place of beauty to me, no matter where they are, but I’m finding that there is something that speaks to my soul when I am surrounded by their beauty. We’ve been to other regions on this trip, all unique and wonderful, yet when we’ve retuned to Spoleto, it’s a comforting feeling, a welcome back that makes our hearts smile.

And the beach is only an hour away from here! Win-win.