What a joy to be in this beautiful country over the Easter holiday. I’m still kicking myself at not thinking ahead to attend any of the various ancient observances in the small villages around Spoleto, especially on Good Friday. However, any chance I get, I step into one of the beautiful old churches and duomos in Italy, Easter or not. There is a deep-seated calm, an austere yet comforting presence in these ancient buildings. The smell of hundreds of years of incense and smoke and stone mingle to make a scent that I can only describe as time itself. The sheer magnitude of beauty and the ages and spirituality here easily coax anyone open to it to stop, reflect, take a seat and have a talk with God, or even just rest in the peace felt here. I recently read of how younger people today are feeling drawn spiritually to tradition and beauty — such as the Catholic Church or more liturgical denominations. I can understand this draw better with time spent in so many magnificent duomos, churches, and chapels here. Perhaps like when in nature, it connects that God-shaped part of our heart in a sweet, even more direct, way.
Backing up just a bit, a serendipitous trip to Cascia at Stefani’s request led to attending a portion of the Palm Sunday mass in the Basilica of St. Rita (full story on St. Rita of Cascia) . Here it’s observed with olive branches, plentiful because this is the time of year the trees are lovingly pruned. We each carried one away, a special thing indeed.
There are Maundy Thursday masses held in Italy – Giovedì Santo – that focus on the Last Supper and often include the washing of feet and anointing of oil by the priest. Again, kicking myself for not being a step ahead and attending one. La prossima volta.
Saturday seemed like a good day to explore a famous wine town located only about 30 minutes from here. Easter weekend here calls for almost mandatory get-outside-and-mingle. Montefalco is set atop a hill, like most towns in the hilly and mountainous regions of Italy. It has become one of the more touristed destinations due to the increasing celebrity status of the wine produced there, Rosso di Montefalco and Sagrantino di Montefalco. We arrived just in time to snag one of the last parking spaces, grabbed jackets, and walked into the historic center of town to explore a bit. The piazza seemed like a good place to get a table and have a little lunch, and maybe not surprisingly so, it was the most disappointing meal we’ve had thus far. Oh well, I guess you can’t win them all! The people watching was fun, though, and the glass of wine was enjoyable. We had seen a notification for a wine and product tasting that the consortium was hosting a little later in the afternoon – why not! A quick visit into the tourist information center, and we had tickets.
Presented completely in Italian, we did understand probably 50% and tasted a variety of excellent wines and truly delicious local products of meat, cheese, honey, jams, and a local cookie that was out of this world. Lots of fun.
Wherever Easter is celebrated, families come together, but perhaps it’s even more so here. Back in Spoleto , we noticed the town begin to fill. The trattorias and restaurants were full and lively, Piazza Mercato was a hive of activity with families eating gelato, laughing, filling the outdoor tables and sharing aperitivo. It was such fun to be a part of. A sweet passeggiata closed the day.
Easter Sunday arrived. We packed up our salume and holiday bread from Norcia, along with the fruit salad I’d put together, and headed towards Cortona. Friend for about 12 years now, Jennifer Criswell (check out her 2 books) invited us to her Easter brunch. This sweet gal is renowned for her cooking and hostessing skills… her reputation remains intact post-Easter brunch. We enjoyed incredible food of all sorts, the best wine, and even Cadbury eggs and Peeps to top it off! The group of varying ages, all Americans, were fun, interesting, and all had unique stories of how they ended up in Italy, either full time or doing the back and forth gig.
By evening we both agreed there was room for dinner. We lucked into a table at La Bacaccia, one of our favorites run by kindly silver haired Rolando. He’s busy busy running the show, a playful twinkle in his blue eyes and the cutest grin! He’s come to know us and now just rounds our bill out to whatever he thinks is fair. And as always, the food is stellar. Icing on the cake: Rolando knew I loved the tulips from the tulip park we first learned of through him. He made sure the waiter brought a vase from the desk to our table. Il dolcissimo uomo!
Omg those tulips look like they’re out of a renaissance painting! Those are the real thing! So beautiful. I’m so happy that you got to be an Easter even if you didn’t plan ahead for related activities they found you as they should. I do miss some of the much more low key pageantry of Holy Week. Especially Good Friday, from growing up in Ireland. I love your phrasing, the god shaped part of your heart!
I’m not a religious person anymore. They basically beat it out of me, but what remains is a strong spirituality and connection that I also find in those old buildings full of prayers and incense and bells. That deep contemplative peace that has no words. I do miss that and also go to the old churches wherever I go. I really loved the ancient old churches in Mexico- that old world feeling that I miss so very much in my heart and soul. This is beautiful. I love being on this journey with you.
🌻💛🥂
Thank you for such a lovely meaningful comment. But then again, look who it’s from! There is a big difference between religion and spirituality – sometimes they can flow beautifully together, other times not. From all you’ve told me if your growing up years, it definitely lacked spirituality and the basis of Christianity- love and forgiveness. Rambling too much now, but thank you for sharing, for joining us, and for being you! xoxo
I’ve wondered what Holy Week was like for you and Marty while in Italy. It must be a beautiful experience. In the ancient spaces seeing ancient traditions, I think of all the deep hopes, sorrows, memories and celebrations pouring forth from the human condition over so many centuries in one place. If there are ghosts, this is where they come from. We simply can’t ignore the energy that vibrates and remains in these places, can we. Thank you again for sharing your journey!
Beautifully put, Angela. Yes, the ages are palpable in these places. Definitely a vibe and I find it a comforting, hopeful thing. We love the joy that people here seem to be rooted in despite hardships and struggle. Life has played out here for thousands of years and continues to do so – how lucky we feel to get to join in for a brief moment in time!
Dear friends — have you seen the film ‘Pane e Tulipani’…?
YES!! One of our favorites! Time to watch it again. 🙂 Maybe when you’re here!! 😉 There is an ancient chapel that is now a movie theatre. We haven’t been to anything in it yet, but maybe I should petition them to play that movie! Looking forward to seeing you soon – a presto!!