When the opportunity comes along to get a behind the scenes look at something special – take it! We had the opportunity to get a closer look inside Spoleto’s fabulous Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral and Bell Tower with a small group from the Arte Lingua language school. as an extracurricular activity organized by the school.
We’d been in the duomo several times, but to see/climb the bell tower, as well as a locked off portion of the church, a guide is necessary. The language school we attended the first week here sponsored this, so of course it included some educational fun such as new vocabulary and a couple of games.
I am always an advocate for “if you can go up – go up!” Bell towers, rooftops of ancient buildings, hikes, etc. To “go up” the bell tower was a thrill despite the 10 million steps. 😉
Initially we were taken in to the base of the tower, a dirt floor inside hollow brick and rock tower with a view wayyy up of a wood platform of which you could see bell works. My thoughts after “Wow!” were “Well darn” thinking this was it.
I reacted too soon, however. I had not realized we were actually in the smaller, ancient Roman-era tower that had been encased by the “new” tower built in the 1100’s. The ancient stairwell that wound itself up to the top is actually situated between the walls of the two towers. A series of hand hewn rock worn smooth by the ages, the stairs varied in height and dimension, making for an interesting climb and a great workout. Fortunately an iron rail accompanied the steps.
We reached the top and stepped on the wooden platform we’d seen from below. A series of planks bolted together, it brought back some of my childhood apprehension of walking on piers…lol. The cracks between the planks gave a clear view waaaay down to where we’d been – sure hoped they were secure!
The intrigue out did the bit of unsureness I was feeling, though. How fascinating to see the array of bells – huge to big to medium to small, which really weren’t small but bell tower standards are different. Each were numbered – a way to identify them, as well as their sound. The bells are rung 3 times daily, but nobody has to show up to pull ropes these days. It’s mechanized and programmed to do its thing. Sadly, where our apartment is located is just a little too far to hear them. We love (adore!) the daily sound of bells in Italy. It’s a voice, a song, that is heard just as it has for maybe a thousand or more years.
They were scheduled to play at noon, and lucky for us we were out of there by then. Next stop was inside the duomo for more information from the official guide, as well as a look inside the locked side chapel that is in disrepair.
We were able to climb up a staircase that gave a closer look at Fillipo Lippi’s masterpiece detailing the life of Mary over the main altar. I am in love wit this work, perhaps one of the most beautiful I’ve seen other than the Sistine Chapel. We learned that the still-brilliant portion was coated by Lippi with a substance to magnify and preserve the deep hues. Other portions did not receive this before Lippi died; thus, they are still beautiful but less richly toned. To be able to see this a little closer thrilled me…I wish I could’ve lingered longer.
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