March 29, Saturday:
So it often feels like I’m starting my essay for the 5th grade English teacher: “Today I got up and then…” Lol.. not really, but if I ever get into such rote discourse, please feel free to slap me around a bit.
So today we got up…and hit the road, Jack! A drizzly chilly day surprised us since it was pretty skies and a mild breeze when we headed out from Spoleto. Just a short drive away towards an area called Clitunno, and the weather said, “Oh yeah…thought you didn’t need those umbrellas, eh??” That didn’t slow our plans, however.
We’d explored this area the first time here last October, but the ancient Tempietto di Clitunno was closed. It beckoned us back and this time, we had access. Once again, we also had it entirely to ourselves. This beautiful little chapel build close to 2000 years ago was placed strategically on the Via Flamenia, a purposeful stop near a water source. Constructed of partial stone from Roman buildings, the oldest columns used date back to 100 years or so before Christ. And there I was — standing face to face with them, examining the intricate layered leaf pattern, thinking about the hands that had carved them either by choice or because they had to. I thought, too, of how many had stood just where I did, coming and going from Rome, or perhaps just on a trade mission, or to visit family. The stones leading up and into the chapel were worn with the imprints of hundreds of thousands, the ages reflected in the glossy finish that only years can produce. They’ll be there long after you and I aren’t. How special to place my feet upon them.
We lingered, each of us lost in thought, occasionally remarking on the awe we felt.
Next stop was a town tucked in the mountains east of here, Cerreto di Spoleto, one of the “7% towns”… low taxation for expats for 10 years, but the towns are depopulating and earthquake prone, at least here in Umbria. The drive out is awesome, not unlike the mountains of northern New Mexico or even Colorado, Twisty turning two lane roads snake up and over these parts; it can be a bit dicey at times, especially when huge truck pops out from around a blind curve. But the beauty is break taking – green forested mountains, craggy rocks and boulders that tell the ancient story of their uplifting, streams that course the roadway until it’s time to climb. And up we climbed, navigating hairpin turns until we tumbled into the main small piazza. Park here was all that seemed doable, so we did. It didn’t take long to wander through the quiet town. It was the lunch hour(s), so all was shut down… or maybe the majority of it always is now. These small villages don’t have much to support a livelihood. People do still live here and happily so, even families raising children. But it requires a commute for work and school, along with other necessities beyond the basics.
We were freezing by this point and opted to go back to the base of the mountain for lunch in Borgo Cerreto where we’d seen a trattoria. Oh boy, was the roasted pork delish!! Tender medallions covered in balsamic and rucola, a side of caprese, and a topper of grilled vegetables…si mangia bene in Italia!
A quick grocery stop to pick up some items to fix dinner, some catch up at the apartment, and then off to Piazza Mercato to meet a couple of ladies we’d connected with via the blog who are now both living in Spoleto. One, who I’ll refer to as R was from New Jersey and had been here for almost two years…we visited her home just off the piazza and it is multiple-wow-worthy! She did good. The other, who I’ll call W, is renting and she and her husband and son will all eventually settle in here — all the way from South Africa. Both have close relation Italian linage, so you’d think getting all the paperwork marathons over and done with would be expedited, but nope. It was very interesting to hear their stories, as well as get good info on important things like the best salumeria in town and where to eat the best pasta with in-season wild asparagus! We’ll definitely see them both again. (& maybe remember to take a picture!)
I whipped up a dinner of salad and parmigiana for me; Marty finished off the Spaghetti al’Assasina from the other night..and we both capped it off with a digestivo of Sardinian mirto. A pleasant day in the books!