Or perhaps we should title this…”Daredevils Only Need Apply”
I say that a bit tongue-in-cheek, but alas…satire is always rooted in truth. Driving in Italy is an experience one should definitely partake in if desired, but doing a little homework beforehand is always a good idea.
We’re often asked by friends or friends of friends for advice on planning a trip to Italy. One of my first questions is “Do you plan to rent a car?” Often the answer is “Oh yes!”, which leads to my waterfall of questions to decipher just how aware of the Italian driving culture the potential driver is. However, when the answer to “Do you know what a ZTL is?” is “No…”, I’m probably due a complimentary glass of Brunello for saving said person about 300 or more euro! Renting a car, though, allows so much more freedom to explore, to go where the spirit moves, and to free fall into a full la dolce vita experience. To help that come to pass, we wanted to share a primer of what we consider the most valuable things to know before getting behind an Italian wheel. Andiamo!
Rental Companies
Most major rental companies are dependable. It can vary, though, from location to location, and it’s never time wasted to read up on reviews from your intended rental office. We used Europcar for years and were generally satisfied until the last few landed us cars that were poorly maintained. The last thing you want to do on a trip is deal with car problems – ask us, we know. We’ve since used *Hertz a couple of times and have been satisfied. Booking in advance online is usually more economical, but we suggest opting for pay in-person; often prices will swing wildly and it’s easier to cancel, then rebook if the savings are big.
Things to put in your back pocket:
Think Tiny
Italian cars are tiny. Italian parking spaces are tiny. Italian roadways are tiny. Think hard before packing several big suitcases. If traveling in pairs, you’ll fit a couple of 26” rolling duffels and two backpacks in easily enough with just a little room to spare. One hard side standard suitcase will eat up every inch of trunk space. Yep.
The Autostrada
Don’t get too huffy, Germany…you’re not the only one with an Indy 500 wanna-be highway. I jest but just a little. The Autostrada, Italy’s major toll system highway, does have a speed limit; however, for those who prefer the far left lane, it’s merely a suggestion that’s often ignored. Typically on three lane highways, the middle lane is your happy place. The plethora of humongous semis that course these roads are, by law, supposed to stay right. However, they will pass when the spirit moves them and you better be ready to decelerate rapidly when a wall of metal is overtaking your lane. If you need to pass, pause a second or two to study the left lane – Mario Andretti is likely to appear within a nano-second just when you thought all-clear.
Italians are not shy when it comes to bumper hugging. What we’d consider potential road rage here is just another Ciao…please get outta my way on the Italian road. Same goes for flashing the headlights, and maybe even some hand waving that probably isn’t meant as a friendly hello.
A few other things to note:
Let’s Talk ZTL
Which stands for Zona Traffico Limitato…or translated – Do NOT go past that sign with the little red circle! You’ll find these in all major cities, as well as the more touristed small towns and villages.
On one trip, we had flown into Milan and were driving south towards Tuscany. Parma was right on the way…what a great place to stop for lunch! Jetlagged and starving, we circled twice through the outer edge of the city center. Parking was impossible, we grew frustrated – we decided to settle for panini at the gas station. Six months later, a letter arrived from the car rental company – with a bill for traffic infractions. What?? A little research later, we learned we’d crossed a ZTL barrier in Parma, not once but twice. Mamma mia. We paid the 100. euro, case closed. Well, about six additional months later, a beautifully gold embossed, official looking letter arrived – from Italy. Inside was a bill for about 250. euro – for traffic infractions x2 – in Parma. Miffed at the oversight, emails and phone calls commenced. End of the story was that the car rental company charged us (not the Italian government) for providing our contact info to the police so the police could send us the fancy envelope with ticket enclosed. We asked our Italian friends, “Should we pay this??” “If you want to rent a car again in Italy, you probably should.” Tails tucked and lesson learned, we paid. And we became MUCH more vigilant regarding ZTL signs, which are often hard to pick out amongst the 20 other signs stuck on every street corner!
Speed Cameras
They do exist, these Autovelox. You’ll see the signs advising of them: a cute little police silhouette (at least I think that’s what it is) with the words “controllo elettroninco della velocità” in white on blue. They’re set up to snap a pic as you cruise by, then snap a second one further down the road. Apply an algorithm, and wham…they know if you’ve been speeding. One fancy-schmancy Italian envelope in our mailbox was enough, so we’ve never toyed with fate, but friends there assure us they work. Fortunately, whichever map you’re using for GPS generally gives a heads up. Not that any of us need any warning since I’m sure we wouldn’t surpass the speed limit, but yeah…for those other people.
Can I Park Here??
Italy offers a good number of designated parking areas. Be aware, though, that some are paid parking, others are free. How to know? White stripes mean free, blue stripes mean pay…and spaces reserved for residents will be marked in yellow. Easy enough. In recent years, many paid parking places offer EasyPark…and some in major cities you are ONLY offered EasyPark as an option to pay. This is an app that is well worth getting and setting up. It has made paid parking so much easier than fumbling for change, trying to figure out the confusing steps on the machine, etc. Another good tip is to do a map search for parking at your destination. This can save a lot of time and frustration.
Signage in Italy
Another homework assignment, kids! It will pay off to familiarize yourself with general signage on Italian roadways. Stop signs, interestingly so, are just like ours; however, they tend to be slanted in an odd way at intersections. Just use common sense and you’ll be fine. And of course, roundabouts are everywhere. They’re awesome but be sure you understand how the yield-go-flow of them works. There are traffic signals (semaforo) but they are not nearly as common.
The main exits on the Autostrada, and even the smaller rural roads, can be a little confusing. They just can’t list every town, so it’s often just the major ones like Rome or Florence shown. Know which one lies in your general path, then follow the signs that lead that way until you begin to see specific signs for your destination.
Here’s a link to an article on Italy Explained (great website/blog) that’s an excellent quickie course on signage!
International Drivers Permit
We’ve driven in Italy for around 15 years now, and in all that time we’ve only be asked once to flash our International Drivers Permit. Worth getting, you ask? Yes, we say. It’s easy: go online to AAA, find the form, follow the instructions, and about 3 weeks later you’ll have one. Alternatively, go into a AAA office and do the same. It’s a 20. fee and good for one year. This doesn’t replace your US license — you’ll need both. However, you will be so glad you left home prepared when that very handsome (or beautiful) Italian police officer asks to see it.
Just Do Not…
Final Thoughts
Driving in Italy is FUN…at least we think so! Do your homework, realize it’s going to be a little stressful initially, and soon enough you’ll be happily cruising down winding scenic roads with the wind at your back and a smile on your face. Divertiti, y’all!
