I’m a sucker for anything that brings history to life.
Italy is overflowing with such things this time of year: food sagras, medieval festivals, palios, musical events, and so on. It’s such a beautiful thing that the traditions and importance of the past are valued and kept alive, are cherished and passed on to the next generation.
There are so many to choose from as May eases into June – it’s difficult to pick and choose! However, we’d read several weeks ago about a particular one held amongst the Roman ruins of Otriculum – a once vital city located on the strategic Via Flamenia.
This event is spread over three days and includes an ongoing variety of demonstrations and events. We weren’t sure what to expect, but it was certainly worth going to check it out.
The ruins are located just outside of the “newer” town of Otricoli – yet another charming Umbrian medieval town. Finding the entrance to the ruins led us to a field for parking which segued to a cafe/bar, and then the entrance to the ruins. A meandering walk down a tree-lined path was a great transition from modernity to the ancient world. It’s easy to imagine Roman life passing along here as folks came and went. I could place myself quickly in their sandals, imagining myself on a journey into the city.
As we rounded the last curve in the gravel road, the sound of pipes and drums reached our ears. These things always quicken my steps! A scene out of the history books was unfolding before us — tents shading various artisans and merchants, tables for money exchange, a huge clay oven spilling smoke while baking bread, and people of all ages dressed in period clothing. We had stepped into an ancient world under the bright blue sky amidst theses ruins of antiquity.
It was hard to decipher where to begin. We stood trying to take it all in before making decisions. Our minds were made up for us when we were startled out of our indecision by the shout of a sharp command and aggressive response coming behind us. Fully garbed regiments were in procession and making their way to the central grounds. A museum had come to life right before us; it was magnificent to see.
Various scenes of this sort played out over the course of the hours we spent here. Small troupes of very young to teenage girls accompanied by ancient drums and flutes performed authentic dances, there were demonstrations of coin and oil lamp making among others,, while a food tent offered authentic bread, grilled meat, and a semi-sweet mead type of wine poured from clay amphorae. The money changer at the “cassa” (no modern money accepted; you had to turn it into ancient Roman coins) was the cutest little Roman tyke we’d ever seen!
We took advantage of the afternoon to wander the ruins. Spread throughout beautifully serene fields, these ruins were less intact than those we’d seen elsewhere, but the allure and awe were fully preserved. One must take time in the quiet of these moments and reflect. Lean against the walls of the ancient baths or theatre walls or funerary monuments and feel – be open to thoughts and imagination and the connection with these ancient people who were not much different than you and I.
It was blistering hot, and by late afternoon we’d pretty much expended our energy allotment. After completing the walk out and around the ruins, then observing the military procession of blessings from the commander, we took one last walk into the tent barracks of the soldiers. There were rough hewn tables and benches hosting people in garb drinking and talking, a board game was underway, the cook was grilling meat for the evening meal. Some were reposing in their tents; I can only imagine how hot the regalia is! The effort put into making this experience authentic was impressive. Huge kudos to the reenactors and all those who are a part of putting this event together.
We decided to do a quick exploration of Otricoli proper – which included a stop for a cool Spritz overlooking the valley. Never a bad idea!
Since we would be passing a roadside Trattoria we’d discovered a couple of weeks ago, it seemed the perfect excuse to stop for dinner once again. It also gave us the chance to chat with and officially meet the energetic owner, Chiara. She’s a fun spirit and we enjoyed some laughs before departing.
I felt refreshed enough by the time we arrived back in Spoleto to venture out for some of the music going on around town with the weekend’s wine festival. It was a joyful evening walk winding my way up to Piazza Mercato to see what was going on.
The scene was lively and comfortably full with folks of all ages out and about. Outside tables at bars and eateries were brimful; laughter and joyous conversation spilled into the street and made me smile.
Music was everywhere. The cafe/bar down from us was hosting a DJ playing techo-dance; a level or two up towards the main piazza offered easy jazz with a sax and upright bass; Piazza Mercato was alive with the sounds of a ten piece swing band. It was thrilling to be apart of all of this!
I stayed awhile just soaking in the sounds, watching the people, and swinging my hips wishing so badly I could just break out and dance. It’s funny – as demonstrative as the Italians are, I haven’t seen much impromptu dancing other than small children.
Such another day of the most fun, fulfilling, and memory-making moments. We are so blessed.
** the thousand and one photos/videos from this event are on our “Trying on Italy” Facebook page